Troubleshooting

-For those with a phase2 of the prosthetic-

Please contact me if you have any more tips or ideas to ad, a problem I haven’t addressed, or if you need more instructions.

"Good news!!

I gave it all one more try and noticed that the small "air-inlet" in the
back appeared not to suck in air. It turned out to be clogged. A piece of

material, too small for me to determine what, was blocking the entrance.

After removal I tried again and magically it turned big and hard. Works
absolutely wonderful now and *** is very pleased with the result.

So, no need to send back and no need to worry anymore.

Thanks for your support.

Best regards,

P**"

P, 27.04.2008 Netherlands

Troubleshooting INDEX

1) Pumping

2) Staying erect/ exit valve

3) Releasing the air/ exit valve
4) skin tighter on erection/ skin valve
5) Swimming
6) flaccid length
7) glue bond

8) Sweating
9) Removing adhesive from plates
10) skin irritation
11) Correct placement

12) Measuring, slanted or bent erection
13) hide the plate

14) lost /damaged parts

15) Back holder issues
16) need more help

1) Pumping:

I have recently improved the pumping as well as the look and feel of the balls in the sack.

The new version, the balls look like this

The original version, the balls look like this

Both versions:

Air is pulled into the balls from the little hole on the left side of the scrotum, squeezing the balls pumps the air into the shaft of the penis. The balls must re-fill with air each time you pump air into the shaft.

Pumping may take practice. Once you get it, it is easy and fast - although NOT spontaneous.

The exit valve must be closed properly. Read the exit valve parts of this page (part 3) for more info.

Original Version:

The trick is to pump in short squeezes rather than full squishes. It takes patience and practice to get it right.

If the balls 'stick together' squeeze the balls lightly at other angles until the balls re-fill with air - and ‘unstick’. To avoid this ‘sticking’, never pump all the air out of the balls.

When you pump, the first few pumps are the slowest and least effective. It may help to squeeze the shaft (as if you do not want air to enter it) when you start to pump.

New version:

The design you have should not 'stick' however it must be pumped harder.

Squeeze the balls fully for each pump. The first few pumps may need to be done slowly.

As the shaft fills with air, the balls re-fill with air faster, and then you can pump harder. Also, you have to pump harder as pressure builds in the shaft.

You may need to stretch the shaft into place the first few times (stretch it long, and maybe straighten it up (see part 12 of this page) or when you pump to erection after not having done so for awhile.

To find the best way to pump, try squeezing at slightly different angles. In general, the best way to pump is to squeeze the two balls together -your palm on the outer side of one ball, and fingers on the outer side of the other.See photos above

It is also possible that the entrance valve is plugged:

Air should go in but not out of the entrance valve.

If you suspect that the entrance valve is plugged, but don’t see anything blocking it, you can clear it by inserting a pump tool.

Designed for pumping balls - not this kind -but basketballs, beach balls etc..
Available most places where balls are sold.

It is necessary to wet the tool (spit on it) before careful insertion.

Air should move freely in and out through the tool.

Please do not stick anything else into the valve as this may damage it.
(If you damage the valve, you will have to block the hole with a finger each time you squeeze during pumping to ensure that the air goes to the shaft rather than out the entrance hole. A damaged entrance valve also means that the balls will fill up with water fairly immediately when you swim or bathe.)

2) If the penis doesn’t hold an erection, please take a closer look at the valve.

And try this test:

Pump to erection.
Place the exit valve in a glass of water - the area where the 2 tube bits connect must be under water.
If you see bubbles, then the exit valve may not be closed properly.

Can’t get it to close properly?

If you received your prosthetic after September 2008, you have the new system.

If you have troubles with the new system, please see the information sheet I sent you with your prosthetic. Please e-mail me if you need a new sheet or new parts.

If you need information for the original system, please see original version exit valve

3) The air doesn’t exit to release an erection, or the flaccid state feels too solid:

The flaccid penis is softest when the exit valve is really open and no air is trapped inside. When you pump while the exit valve is open, air should flow freely through the shaft and out the exit valve.
Be sure the exit valve is clearly open. Please see the info sheet for more on the ‘new version exit valve’, or see original exit valve for more on the ‘original version’. If you received your prosthetic after September 2008, you have the new system.

4) air is ‘caught’ under the prosthetic skin during an erection, so that the skin isn’t nicely taunt over the shaft:

Squeeze the skin and press the skin valve open. The air should exit, and the valve should resume functioning on it’s own. If this happens often, or the skin seems to 'balloon out', please let me know.

5) Swimming

Water enters the pump/erection device when you swim/ bathe:

Water is most likely entering through the exit valve. You can lessen this by folding the prosthetic skin back over itself, by closing the exit valve, or by 'adjusting' your swim shorts. Most swim shorts have built in underwear. You can shorten the crotch of the built in underwear so that it holds the prosthetic closer to your body, slightly squishing the shaft.

This is easy to do:
Locate the centre seam. photo
Now put them on and see how much you need to shorten the seam. The underwear should be just tight enough to hold the shaft down against the balls -not tighter.
Fold the seam over and sew.

6) The flaccid shaft is too long for you:

If you find the shaft too long for your frame, you can fold skin over wherever you want. This makes the shaft shorter, but also thicker and more solid. You can also fold it over on itself. For this you will need more fitted underwear to keep it in position. If it is really new – be patient – it will get used to sitting more comfortably.

7) The Adhesive Bond

-For general information on adhesives please see the Adhesives page of this site.-

"Hey Tyron,

    I just wanted to let you know that the crystal deodorant idea works like a charm. I use the spray adhesive and I was having trouble with it being too gummy and the prosthetic shifting. This then allowed other things to stick to the adhesive that was no longer covered by the plate. It was kind of a mess. Anyway, I saw your tip on the new page and tried it out. I haven't had a single problem since.

     Thanks!"

     S. 8 Aug 2008 USA

a) Applying the adhesive:

If you are using a spray rather than a brush on adhesive, you can use the back hold bit to spread the adhesive on the front attachment plate.

b) The glue isn't holding:

It could be that you have cut the elastic for the back hold too short. In this case, cut a new piece – start with a longer piece, and shorten it until it fits comfortably, and doesn’t pull (please see the instructions in the Handbook again).

-Or the problem is with the adhesive bond

You can expect the prosthetic to stay securely attached for at least 24 hours.

The adhesive adheres best after it has had a chance to build up on the plates. When you first begin with the adhesive, you may find that the adhesive stays on the skin rather than on the prosthetic plates when you remove the prosthetic. Be persistent. After a few days of applying the adhesive, it should stay on the plate and no longer on your skin.

If you sweat a lot, try using a deodorant crystal on the skin before applying the prosthetic. See section 8) Sweating.

Be sure that your skin is dry (no water, and no sweat) when you attach your prosthetic.

Oils and cream interfere with the glue bond. Be sure that no grease cream or oil comes into contact with your prosthetic. In case of contact -wash the prosthetic well with dish soap. You can also clean it with rubbing alcohol (isopropanol).

The adhesive should securely glue to the plates after the first few days of applying the adhesive, but this can take up to 2 weeks.

If after two weeks of applying the adhesive, you can remove the adhesive from the plates easily by rubbing, or if it seems to remain ‘gooey’ and never dry ‘tacky’. Please let me know.

This is a problem with certain medical adhesives. I am collecting information to find out how common the problem is and what it is caused by. For more information please see adhesives.

c) To remove the adhesive from your skin:

You are likely to find adhesive residue on your skin –especially in the beginning.

I don’t recommend the use of medical adhesive solvents because they are hard on your skin, also, I don’t find that they work as well as. I suggest:

Washing with warm water and soap

Pulling it off

Rolling it into a ball –using clumps of adhesive to remove the rest of the adhesive. The glue on your skin should stick to the clump, and come off of your skin.

If the adhesive is ‚gooey’ on your skin, you can remove it with isopropanol (‘rubbing alcohol’ used to disinfect the skin before an injection. It is a solvent. Also, if you have a tyron2-prosthetic, you probably have ‘rubbing alcohol’ for T injections.).

d) To remove the adhesives (as well as the build up of lint) from the plates:

A layer of adhesive build up makes the prosthetics adhere better. After awhile the build up becomes thick, and as it mixes with lint it looks dirty. Simply cut the excess of the plates – carefully. It is ok to cut into the plates a bit, but be sure not to cut a hole through the plates.

You can also remove the build-up with isopropanol (‚rubbing alcohol’ used to disinfect the skin before an injection). Remove your prosthetic, and let the plates soak in alcohol until the adhesive softens. You can then rub it off more easily. Be sure to let the alcohol evaporate before reapplying the adhesive.

8) Sweating

If you sweat excessively and are worried about the glue bond not holding:

Try a deodorant crystal (available where regular deodorant sticks are sold). The crystal is a natural stone that inhibits perspiration. It is odourless and contains no creams. You can wipe the crystal on your skin before attaching the prosthetic.

Sweating under the prosthetic

Body hair keeps you warm, holds smells and traps moisture. I suggest that you keep the hair under the prosthetic short or shaved (the parts where the prosthetic plates are glued must be shaved).

Also, you can try a deodorant crystal on the skin under and around the prosthetic.

9) To remove excessive adhesive build-up from the plates:

The glue is made of silicone bonds permanently to your prosthetic. It cannot be removed, but it is easy and safe to cut off. DO THIS VERY CAREFULLY! It is ok if you cut slightly into the prosthetic plate because the adhesive will fill it in again as it builds up. Be sure not to cut THROUGH the plate or to shorten the plate, and do not cut the plate too thin. Just cut off the glue.

10) Skin irritation (under the plates):

This is most likely due to bacteria on the plate, and very unlikely to be caused by the adhesive itself. You can easily fix this by cutting the glue build-up off the plate and washing the prosthetic with disinfectant soap and/or boiling to disinfect.

11) Placing your prosthetic correctly:

When flaccid, the centre of the knob should rest just above the start of the small penis (hormonally enlarged clitoris).

The balls should sit/hang slightly between the legs slightly forward. How high the balls sit depends on your body size and shape and the version of the prosthetic you have (the scrotum is higher on the newest version)

As most of us have researched…labia would have been the scrotum, clitoris would have been the penis.
Take a look at photos in the Internet, magazines etc. If you would like to see a variety of realistic views of naturally grown penises I suggest you see www.erectionphotos.com

12) Measuring, slanted or bent erection

Measuring

Is it as long as it should be?

The erection is around 6,5" 16,5cms measured at the top from base to tip of the head. If you have it in your hand when you measure - and not attached to you- you may need to press the base forward as part of the shaft may be pushed back behind the base.

Erection slanted or not bent

To straighten the shaft angle: push it straight by pressing from behind (the base where the knob is)

To straighten if bent when erect: pull it straight, once straight it should stay straight.

13) To best disguise the front attachment plate:

While pressing to attach the plate to the skin, press the pubic hair down and over the plate.

14) If you have lost or damaged the back hold bits or exit valve, please contact me, I will send you new ones (no charge for the 1st replacements).

15) Back hold issues:

The elastic rubs and irritates your skin?

The back hold bit is being pulled down?

Then the elastic is most likely too short. Experiment with different lengths.

You need more elastic?

What I have sent you is called ‚baby elastic’. It should be available in fabric stores or the sewing section of department stores.

*If you ever happen to find ‚baby elastic’ or similar (soft, and of the thickness I sent you with your prosthetic) in brown and/or black –please let me know where I can buy it.

16) You haven’t found the information you’re looking for? Then please contact me.

Most problems can be fixed easily.

Your contact helps me to know where to improve on the prosthetic and on this troubleshooting page.

Your prosthetic may have an internal failure, in which case I will need to diagnose and repair or replace your prosthetic.

I answer all e-mails I receive, and am available to keep e-mailing until we find a solution, but please do not wait for me to contact you as I don't have the time to check up on each prosthetic I send out.

This is an ongoing project. Your comments and feedback are very important. Positive as well as negative feedback is necessary so that I know what is working and where to improve (be it in my explanations, or the prosthetic itself).